If you suspect a crack, stop riding the bike and take it to a professional for further evaluation. The images below show a crack above the derailleur mount, a bonded bottom bracket shell separating, and a fork crown cracked. None of these bikes were crashed or wrecked. Once a crack has developed, repair is difficult and is often practically impossible.
The saddle may also be loose on the seat post, causing a creak as the saddle rails move and rock. Check security of the saddle rail binder bolts. The seat post can move slightly in the frame seat tube, especially in the fit inside the frame is marginal. Knurling the post, or even cutting off excess post may help.
The headset connects the main frame to the fork and front wheel. Some headsets rely on a tight pressed fit on parts into the frame or fork.
If the fit is not properly tight the parts may move and creak when stressed. It may be best to consult a professional for this repair. For more on headsets see Threadless Headsets or Threaded Headsets. The rear cogs are not a likely source of a creak, but they should be checked in the interest of thoroughness.
For cassette cogs, check security of lockring. For more detail see Cog Removal and Installation. Inspect teeth for burrs and wear, which may cause a pop noise rather than a creak.
A loose stem or bar bolt may also cause a creaking sound. If the bolts threads are dry and without lubrication, they may not secure properly. Remove bolt, grease the threads and under the bolt head, and re-secure. Some handlebars use a center section that is press on, called a sleeve. This sleeve may become loose with use, and may begin to creak. Replacement is the best repair in this case.
You may try a penetrating thread locking compounds if you have one, but it is likely to keep creaking. A center sleeve is seen in the left image below. In the right image below, the bar had no center sleeve. However, the bar developed a crack where it was held by the stem. A catastrophic failure was imminent. Torque Specifications and Concepts View Article. Basic Thread Concepts View Article. Trade Resources. Adjustable Type: Remove both arms and check both cups for tightness.
See Adjusting Bottom Bracket for more details. Many new cranks are assembled without grease or thread retaining compounds, which exacerbates the issue. Undo the chainring bolts and remove the chainrings from the crankarm. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces between the chainrings and crankarm spider tabs, apply a very thin layer of grease, and then reassemble using either grease or medium-strength retaining compound on the bolt threads and heads.
In addition, many modern cranks now have separate chainring spiders that are either bolted or pressed on to the arm — another potential source of creaking.
For bolt-on setups, undo the bolts, remove the spider and then reinstall with green Loctite or a similar medium-strength sleeve retaining compound on the spline interface plus blue Loctite or equivalent on the bolt threads. For press-fit spiders, dribble a bit of Loctite at the interface and allow it to wick into whatever space might exist between the parts. Allow to cure overnight and then reassemble.
Chances are that whatever grease was originally applied to the threads is long gone. Simply remove the pedals, clean the threads on both the pedals and crankarm, and reinstall with a fresh coating of grease. You can also get creaking from cleats. Wipe down both the cleats and pedals with a wet rag, and then spray both with a light coating of silicone spray or wax-based furniture polish.
Wipe the surfaces clean and then apply a thin layer of grease to the rails and seatpost head. The saddle itself can also creak where the rails insert into the shell. Turn the saddle upside down and apply one small drop of heavyweight oil like Phil Wood Tenacious Oil at each anchor point. Let it wick in for a few hours and that should quiet things down.
To start, mark your seatpost height with paint or permanent marker, remove the seatpost, and then wipe everything clean including the inside of the seat tube as best you can. For metal-on-metal contact, grease the inside of the seat tube as far down as the seatpost will reach. If either the seatpost or frame or both are carbon fiber, use friction paste instead.
Grease the seatpost clamp bolt and then tighten to spec. Derailleur housing is especially prone to creaking since the longitudinal wires hidden inside the jacketing can so easily move against metal housing caps.
Alternatively, metal housing caps can creak inside the frame stops when you move the bars from side to side. Finally, apply a bit of grease between the frame stop and housing cap. Bicycles Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for people who build and repair bicycles, people who train cycling, or commute on bicycles.
It only takes a minute to sign up. Connect and share knowledge within a single location that is structured and easy to search. Ever since I bought my hybrid bike the handlebars creak. It is worse when torquing them such as climbing a hill, but just shifting my weight on the bars will make them creak.
The bracket is as tight as I can make it. Is there any thing I can do to stop this annoying noise? Are you positive it's coming from the handlebar to stem interface? Creaking sounds are notoriously hard to diagnose. It's highly possible that the noise could be from the stem to steer tube interface or your headset or the spacers on your steer tube or topcap or another source, while it may sound like it's coming from your handlebars.
If you are unfamiliar with how hard to tighten bolts, you should consult your owner's manual, the part manufacturers technical documents or simply take your bike into a reputable mechanic to properly tighten everything. My theory is that these creaking sounds are caused by micro-movements between dry, dust-affected, under-pressure surfaces.
The cleaning and lubing do fine. Silicon or WAX might work better in this case after the disassembly and cleaning, of course. From the fact that you say "Something seems slightly loose if I twist on the bar", there is also some chance that you have mismatched handlebar and stem.
There are You could try removing the handlebar and sticking a Nitto or beer can shim around the clamping area of the bar and remounting it. If you can't fit the bar into the stem's clamp with the shim, then this isn't the problem. Sign up to join this community.
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